Q&A with Louise Turner
Good Girl Eau de Parfum Légère, the new fragrance
The beginning of Good Girl EDP was a white floral. How did you start this project?
Good Girl has been embraced all over the world. It has become a signature scent. An impressive feat in a sector where there are so many launches. We wanted to continue to work on the fascination it has achieved by constructing a fragrance around the original one. The idea was to keep the DNA of Good Girl EDP. So the starting point was the duo of Jasmine and Tonka, the quintessential of Good Girl.
Which fragrance family does it belong to?
It is an oriental floral, that is to say an oriental with a visible floral facet. However, the flowers here–I love flowers!– are so important that we could say it is a floral oriental. The floral dominates more in a very harmonious way. The problem with that category is that many people say floriental, and this is not a floriental!
How would you define a floriental? What is the difference with a floral oriental?
Classification is always a subject with a lot of controversy, as the categories evolve with the trends. A floriental, for me, is a perfume with Tuberose or Orange Flower, rich in Methyl Anthranilate and mixed with oriental notes that are sweet and powdery such as Vanilla and Coumarin Heliotropine that are very typical from the ’80s.
Good Girl EDP Légère is a modern twist of this olfactory group: how does it modernize it?
It is vibrant thanks to the flowers. It is a dynamic and powerful blend thanks to its woody facet.
Good Girl EDP versus Good Girl EDP Légère
In which way is this new EDP Légère different?
The oriental side of the fragrance is faceted with creamier notes in this Eau de Parfum, with the airiness of the Jasmine Sambac Imperial and the delicateness of the Petalia and the softness of the Dulce de Leche.
Which ingredients are the same as in Good Girl Eau de Parfum? Which ones are distinct? Could you compare the notes?
In the original, we included Resinoid and Grilled Tonka. In this new aroma, the majority is Absolut Tonka, which has a more crystallized texture. This facet of the ingredient reinforces the spirit of the Dulce de Leche, a new element. The result, enriched with Mandarin and Ylang Ylang, is softer and less masculine than the first Good Girl EDP.
So Good Girl Eau de Parfum Légère is fresher?
No, it is not. Even though it is called Eau Légère, this is not a fresh or a lighter fragrance. It is as powerful as the previous perfume. The construction and the high quality raw materials used in this Eau de Parfum transform it a long lasting aroma.
Is the voluptuosity of this olfactory creation more delicate than in the first one?
Yes it is; it is softer and creamier.
Good Girl EDP ingredients
Can we talk more about the ingredients used, how they are juxtaposed and how they shape the final formula?
Sandalwood works very well with Absolut Tonka. The white side of the EDP Légère is made of Ylang Ylang and not Tuberose (a very narcotic and opulent note) which was present in the original Good Girl. Ylang Ylang is greener and natural, it reinforces the petally effect of the Jasmine tonalities.
You have used high quality raw materials; how did you choose them? Where do they come from? Any particularity about the way they have been harvested?
We have made no concessions in this perfume: we have opted for a new variety of Jasmine Sambac: Jasmine Sambac Imperial. It is one of the most expensive ingredients in the market. It is cultivated in the most perfect conditions in China. The same goes for the richness of Ylang Ylang, which blends perfectly with Jasmine, the core. We have used the fraction technique for extraction: the result is feminine and modern.
Why did you decide to introduce this variety of Jasmine?
Jasmine Sambac Imperial works almost like a new raw material. To understand better its nuances, we should first explain the differences between Sambac and Grandifiora. The latter is more animal and heavier; Sambac is more floral. Jasmine Imperial is even less animal; it is softer and creamier. It is even more airy.
Ethereal… that reminds me of the liberated personality of Good Girl. How does the cultivation of the ingredient make it aerial?
Around the fields of Jasmine, tea is grown. As it happens with wine, the soil has an impact on the final product. One can smell the airiness that resonates in the tea; its freshness and radiance are present in EDP Légère. The character of this note, which is extremely refined, makes the aroma elegant and luminous.
The Good Girl woman: a story of powerful femininity
Which notes speak of modern femininity?
The sandalwood, the woody element, makes it strong, intense and powerful. This ingredient works for both masculine and feminine fragrances. And the same thing happens with Tonka, it was originally used in masculine creations, like Fougères.
So this new EDP Légère is multi-faceted, as women are: it is airy and powerful at the same time?
Exactly! It is very chameleonic because even though we included Mandarin, the character is not citric. The radiance of this scent opens like a flower and resonates throughout the day.
Good Girl is a modern femme fatale. How does this fragrance capture that spirit?
This perfume seduces with notes of Tonka and Dulce de Leche. The temptation continues thanks to their creamy tonalities. Being a creamy floral makes it more intoxicating without being dark. This texture wraps and embraces, that lures you in.
So it is good to be bad…
That is the spirit. Even though, I would say that Good Girl Eau de Parfum Légère
is less darker than Good Girl Eau de Parfum. This spontaneous floral whispers glamour, lightness and authenticity and it adapts perfectly during the day. In a way, it is a little less naughty than the original. Good Girl EDP Légère behaves as the perfect accessory for the sophisticated women.
The stiletto bottle, another complement, is a symbol of femininity and is very powerful. The shoe of Good Girl has become a referent in perfumery. Can we talk a bit about the new bottle of EDP Légère?
In the beginning, some people doubted about the object. A shoe? But, you know what? Yes a shoe! We love them! It is a breakthrough: the first flacon was already but this one is modern and classic at the same time… And it was a challenge for me as a perfumer. The color of the original one was midnight blue; this new flacon is dégradé and transparent at the bottom, a coup de force for the sector but I had to be very vigilant with the tonality of the formula.
You are inspired by Carolina Herrera, any moment with her that enthused you in the making of EDP Légère?
We were in a cosmetic store and when we noticed the Good Girl stand, she pointed at it and said, “You need to take two to make a pair”. I think that is what happens here. These two scents –Good Girl Eau de Parfum and Good Girl Eau de Parfum Légère –complement each other, the person that wears the Eau de Parfum can also wear the EDP Légère. Aroma is like our personality, we are different people, so it makes sense to capture our chameleonic roles with these two fragrances. We do not have to choose! ¡Let us take two pairs of each!
Can you describe and talk a bit about your first encounter with Carolina Herrera?
She is iconic, she is like a goddess to be worshipped… I admire her. I also love what she said about simple ideas being the best. Simplicity makes everything better. Not only in fragrances, it is a rule of thumb for life.
How would you describe Carolina Herrera de Baez?
She is elegant without being imposing. She radiates when she enters the room and her simplicity is like a complex gem, pure and authentic, classic and intriguing.
Like Good Girl Eau de Parfum Légère …
Exactly! The first fragrance is inspired by her mother, Ms Herrera, and this second one, by Carolina Herrera de Baez. Not only does the image, Karlie Kloss, embodies its spirit, Carolina Herrera de Baez epitomizes its luminosity.
Carolina Herrera de Baez is always very involved in the process of making perfumes, right?
Exactly, she is a hard worker but she is also very gifted. She loves perfumery and makes pertinent and insightful comments. Few people have her nose.
How does Karlie Kloss embodies and personifies the Good Girl values?
In real life, she is adorable, very easy-going, accessible and really smart. In person, she glows, she is the girl next door. But in the advertisement she plays the seductress: Karlie Kloss is chameleonic, liberated and glamorous.
Perfumes: beyond notes
Perfumes are linked with colors, they talk about memories; do you think they can also represent a city?
Yes. This one speaks about a vibrant, energetic metropolis, full of inspiring and powerful women like New York.
Smells belong to the realm of the unseen… it can be extremely powerful as well.
Correct, you are touching people with emotion. It is a very influential sector. Aroma is a message, certain ones speak openly to some people and others don’t. Even the perceptions between perfumers change. It is an emotional language and therefore the same words do not convey the same message. That is the mystery of this art.
Louise Turner; personal questions
Which are your secret pleasures? How do you like to indulge?
I love chocolate and Netflix, I am very fond of tv series like The crown, Penny Dreadful and Twin Peaks.
How many shoes do you have?
I have 100 pair… Most of them I never wear because they are very tall and uncomfortable! But I can’t help buying these accessories. They are like artistic sculptures.
Do you think they can shape the way someone walks, stands, and moves? In a way, height has always been equated with power.
We are mad about shoes. They make us dream with fairy tales, the girl waiting for the prince to arrive.
Do you think perfume can also mean power? Do you think that with the correct scent (as happens with the correct shoes) a woman can conquer the world?
Fragrance doesn’t mean power; fragrance is the essence of power! It can make you feel more confident and stronger.
I heard you love flying?
I nearly became a pilot when I was younger but after studying Environmental Studies I received the offer of a Perfume Company to work with them and I accepted. When I was 21 years old I nearly went to Kenya to become a pilot: I pictured myself flying through the Serengeti looking for Robert Redford. I have been learning for two years now, I will take my final exam soon.
Why do you like flying?
I love the sensation of freedom and focusing: you need to be very concentrated; flying is like doing mindfulness!